Water Pump -- Again!

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Well, I got done with the stator installation, the battery replacement, and the front tire install.  I went for a ride long enough to prove out the stator/battery work and to scuff in the front tire -- a couple of hundred miles or so.

I felt very good about the repairs, and parked the bike in the garage for the night.

Next morning, I found this:

I pointed menacingly to the oil spot on the floor as if scolding a pet that had messed on the floor.

Surely my [pet] motorcycle would not have done such a thing in my otherwise spotless garage. 

I peeked at the engine through the openings in the cowling and found the front of the engine and the inside of the cowlings defiled by an oily, dirty mess spread over a considerable area.

"What have I done wrong with the stator installation?" I asked myself.   It turned out that I didn't do anything wrong over there.  The stator cover is a considerable distance from the oil I was looking at here.  The wind pressure during my 200-mile ride would have caused the left side of the engine, and well behind this, to be oily.

Well, if not that, what? 

I removed the bottom fairings, and wiped down the engine so I could see where the oil was coming from.  I ran the motor until hot, and I couldn't see anything.  (Naturally, it never acts up when you need it to.)

I looked at the oil filter, since I'd just installed it, but didn't see anything leaking there either. 

Finally, I saw some oil coming out of the water pump weep hole.  Just a little, mind you, but oil nonetheless. 

The general neighborhood of the leak.

Closer up view of the vent with the oil wiped away.

The water pump oil seal was apparently leaking.  On this machine, there is a shaft driven by the innards of the engine, that extends out through an oil seal, then a coolant seal to drive the coolant pump impeller.  Between the two seals is a weep hole to the outside. 

That weep hole, by the way, can show both oil and coolant leakage.  The oil side of the water pump drive has an elastomeric shaft seal and the coolant side has a ceramic face seal.  If either of them leak, the leakage comes out of the weep hole.  This design also prevents coolant and oil from mixing should there be a leak between them. 

I had had this trouble before, at 41,000 miles.  Back then it was coolant, so I replaced the coolant seal, buttoned it up again, and it was fine for a short time.  Then the oil seal began to leak and I had to do the repair all over again. 

Now, at 66,000, it has begun leaking oil again, so this time I will replace all the seals at the same time, so I don't have to repeat the task.  . 

I got on the Internet and began looking for the best deal on parts.  I ended up at Ron Ayers Motorsports.

My needs were a bit more pedestrian than stocking stuffers.

I bought the following for my 2006 Ninja 650R:

• 49063-1055 ceramic face seal $11.65
• 59256-0007 water pump impeller (in case the old plastic one was stuck and I broke it getting it apart) $20.92
• 92049-1259 oil seal $4.27
• 92055-0082 case O-ring $1.74
• 92055-0083 pump housing seal $4.32
• 92055-1155 pump cover seal $7.38

The total was $61.68 including a whopping $11.40 shipping charge. 

I punched the order button, and the parts were in my hands two days later.  I began the repair.

I removed the right Inner Cowling for access to the coolant expansion reservoir and radiator cap.  I drained the coolant and removed the five screws holding the pump cover (be careful not to lose the two dowels in the cover).  Then I took the impeller screw out (Put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake to be sure you can apply sufficient torque to the screw.) and the impeller came off the shaft easily.  So, I didn't need to buy that expensive new impeller, it turned out.   Next, I pulled the housing (one more dowel there).  The housing is a very thin aluminum die casting, so be careful not to bend it when removing and handling it.

This is what's left after all that is removed. 

I checked the pump drive shaft for radial clearance that might have caused the seal to fail, but could not detect any. 

I cleaned everything with a rag, then with brake cleaner -- outside to avoid the fumes.

The oil seal can be easily removed from the housing by prying it out with a screw driver.

The cup side of the ceramic face seal for coolant is a different matter.  It is pressed into the housing and there is a sealant on the outside of the seal cup that not only prevents leakage there, but tends to lock the cup in tightly.  I set up a makeshift press using two sockets and my bench vice.

The socket on the left side is bearing on the housing.  The inside diameter of that socket is just slightly larger than the outside diameter of the seal cup flange.  Make sure it is properly centered on the seal before applying force with the vice. 

The outside diameter of the socket on the right is just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the housing bore that holds the seal cup.

Check all of your metric and English sockets to find the best fits.  If you bend the housing, you will have to replace it to the tune of about $35. 


The coolant seal cup came loose with only moderate force.  I further cleaned the housing with brake cleaner.

I pressed the coolant seal cup flange into the housing using a flat piece of hardwood and a socket on the opposite side to support the housing.

the oil seal is similarly pressed into place with a piece of hardwood.  Its face is to be flush with the highest part of the housing on that side.  It is not to be even with the four recesses. 

The mating half of the coolant seal is contained in the back of the impeller.  It is easily removed with a screw driver.  I opened the envelope containing the new impeller and was surprised to find that it is a nicely-machined aluminum die casting.  The original was plastic.  That is why I was afraid of damaging it during removal. 

I went ahead and installed the new one.  I'll keep the old one as a spare (though I don't expect to wear out or break the new impeller).  The coolant seal is an easy finger press fit into the back of the impeller.

I carefully applied a bit of grease to the various O-ring seals and to the oil seal lip.  The grease lubricates the seal, but it serves to prevent the O-rings from falling out of position when reassembling the pump.  Do not apply grease to the coolant seal faces. 

Clean both faces of the coolant seal with a high flash point solvent.  I used a little brake cleaner on a clean rag.  I carefully wiped both faces, then applied a drop of coolant to both faces to provide the initial lubrication. 

I threaded the oil seal in the pump housing onto the shaft, and pushed the housing against the mating face on the engine.  The one dowel aligns this.  The impeller slips onto the shaft, and the screw securing it is tightened to 87 in-lb.  Again put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake to be sure you can apply sufficient torque to the screw.

The cover went on next (with the two dowels) and the screws were tightened in a star pattern to 87 in-lb.

I reconnected the coolant hose, filled it up with coolant and ran the engine, topped off the radiator when partially warmed up, installed the radiator pressure cap, filled the overflow reservoir to the F mark (with the bike standing upright), and continued running the engine until the cooling fan came on.  Once cool, I rechecked the coolant level in the overflow and set it between the F and L marks with the bike upright. I reinstalled the cowlings so everything looks nice again.  For the time being, I left off the Inner Cowling so I could top off the coolant expansion tank if necessary. 

I was ready for a test ride.




But....

It turned cold, and I didn't have time to go out for a couple of weeks.




Then this:

Phooie!

So I decided to use the time to put on my hand muffs for the winter riding season.  They really help keep the hands warm in concert with the heated grips.

This winter I selected the Ducks Unlimited pair instead of the Hippo Hands brand.  They look better on this type of bike, though they don't protect as well as the larger Hippo Hands. 

When the snow goes away, I'll go out and test the water pump -- and enjoy warm hands!

Maybe I'll see you out there.
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Stator, Battery, and Front Tire

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Well, it happened.  The stator in the alternator failed, as they tend to do in Ninja 650Rs.  Mine got me almost to 66,000 miles, so I am pretty happy.  It also didn't just let me down in the middle of nowhere, fortunately.

The stator is wired in a three phase pattern, and one of the phases was not producing an output voltage. 

I think the failure is right where the burned place is in the photograph below.

That failure made the stator produce less power to recharge the battery and run lights, ignition, fuel injection, and accessories.  I noticed that occasionally the horn was not very loud and the trip odometers and clock would sometimes reset to zero when starting the engine.  I tested the stator according to the Kawasaki manual and found the problem.

The stator OEM part number is 21003-0042 for my 2006 and others.  I bought a new stator from grimcycles on ebay, and it got here in about a week.  It looks good and fit fine.  More importantly, it now produces the full power that it should.  That cost me $144.95 for the part, shipped.  My labor, as usual, is free.

I changed the oil and filter as long as I was in there.  You lose most of the oil when opening the stator cover if you do it with the side stand instead of a rear stand.  If you use the latter, you only lose about a quart.  It needed changing anyway, so that was fine.  I use Mobil 1 and a Kawasaki-brand filter. 

The procedure to change the stator is well documented here.  I reused the stator cover gasket.  It is not metal, but it is sufficiently sturdy if you are careful handling it.  Use silicone sealant only around the wire passthrough, not on the entire gasket. 


I buttoned up the engine, filled it will oil, started it up and found that the charging voltage at 4000 RPM was correct at 14.6 volts.


I went for a ride, and the symptoms of the weak horn and disappearing odometer reading persisted!

Now what?

Well, I tested the battery after it had been on trickle charge overnight and found its voltage to be lower than it should be.

That is an indication of a bad battery.  I last replaced the battery in late 2012, almost 30,000 miles ago.  That time, I replaced it with the same as OEM, a Yuasa YTX12-BS.  I did the same this time, and found it only a few dollars higher than six years ago at $59.88, shipped from Amazon seller Avid Cycles.  It got here in a few days, I filled it, charged it, and everything works fine now.


Oh, wait a minute.  What about the tire I mentioned?   Well my front tire was about worn out so I sent away to Sportbike Track Gear for a fresh Michelin Pilot Road 4.  They had the lowest price of $146, shipped when I used an $8 rebate from previous purchases there.  I took it to the local Foothills Powersports dealer to be mounted and balanced for $37.  The worn out tire had 10,500 miles on it and the resulting cost per mile was $0.018 over its life.  Even at as long a life as I get because I ride sedately, tires are a significant expense of owning a motorcycle. 


So I have two good tires, and an electrical system that works properly now.  The whole escapade cost about $390.  This motorcycling isn't cheap!


I might say, though, that this bike has been very reliable over its life.  I never abuse it, so that probably contributes to its longevity.

The other major issues -- besides routine service -- have been the fuel pump failure, the loose kickstand, and the water pump seal failure at 41,000 miles.  I have done all of the maintenance and repair myself, so the costs were much lower than if I had to take it into a mechanic each time. 

Not too bad for an elderly ride like mine.

Hope to see you on the road!
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Might as Well...

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A few weeks ago, it had been cold and rainy here in usually-sunny South Carolina, so I had not been out riding nearly as much as I would have liked to. 

The bike has a little more than 40,000 miles on it now, and I have heard that the rear shock absorber loses its damping ability at about that age, maybe before.  Of course, I hadn’t noticed much of a difference because it has aged slowly.  This unit is not adjustable except for spring preload, so there isn’t anything you can do except replace it.  You can get adjustable ones on the aftermarket, but their price north of 6 bills deterred me from going that route. 

It occurred to me that I had a new rear shock/spring in my box of spare parts, purchased on e-bay some time ago.  It was probably taken off a wrecked bike, as it was very new looking, with no dirt or dust on it at all.  So, it was likely that it had very few miles on it; some unfortunate rider likely totaled his almost new bike, though it is possible that he simply replaced the rear shock with one of those aftermarket units to improve performance. 

I decided to change to the new original equipment shock and see what happens. 

I leafed through the shop manual to see how to replace the shock.  The 650R does not have a center stand to facilitate this kind of work, so they recommend removing the lower cowlings and the muffler, which is beneath the engine, so you can jack up the rear of the bike to take the weight off the rear suspension.  I judged that trying to get the muffler off after some 40,000 miles might be difficult, and I don't have a suitable jack anyway, so I looked for some other way to lift the rear end. 

A few years ago, I had rigged up a lift eye in my garage, secured to a stout gluelam beam that spans the width of the garage and holds up the second floor.  I have used this to support the bike when changing the front tire.  I also have a fabric lifting strap and a come-along to use with this skyhook, so I looked over the bike to see if that could be used. 

I reckoned that if I removed the cowlings around the seat, I could fish the strap under the frame and lift up the whole shebang. 

I first used wire ties to hold the front brake on so the bike would not roll while I was lifting it. 

By the way, that flat bar secured by the bar-end weight is the bracket that keeps the wind from collapsing my Hippo Hands and preventing me from getting my fingers around the levers.  

I then set to work on the rear end, and within fifteen minutes, the pretty plastic parts were removed and the back of the bike was hanging in the air, the tire just barely touching the concrete. 

With the suspension fully extended, the upper and lower screw mounts could be removed and the shock easily slipped out of its position.  The new one slid in with equal ease. 

I consulted the manual again for the correct torques, and made the shock secure. 

That looks nice.  It should work like new. 

Oh.  Wait a minute.  That rear wheel looked pretty dirty with road grime and a little chain lube overspray.  I might as well take care of that while I am right here.  I got out my cleaner and wiped down the wheel and spokes. 

As I consulted my service records, I noticed that the air cleaner element needed to be cleaned and reoiled.  I might as well do that while I am into it.  To do this, that gas tank has to come off.  On this bike, there is a little – and I mean little -- room after you remove the screws at the rear of the tank to reach under it and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump in the tank and the fuel pump electrical connector. 

Luckily, I had run the tank down very low after the last ride, so it wasn’t very heavy.  Well, since I had the tank off, it would be a shame not to see if the fuel filter was dirty.  Might as well.  The filter is not replaceable, but some of the on-line forums suggested that you could rinse it in clean fuel and backflush some of the dirt out of it by repeatedly squeezing it.  I turned the tank on its side and removed the pump.  The sock filter was only a little dark, but I decided to agitate it in some clean fuel and squeeze it as they suggested.  The fuel turned dark, so I must have been at least partially successful in cleaning the filter pores. 

The air filter element requires that a few more fasteners be removed to slide it out.  When I did that, I noticed that the inside of the air box was dirty ahead of the filter, and some of the oil the filter had in it had puddled in the bottom.  I might as well take off the air box and rinse it out good. 

Do you see a trend here?  This might never end! 

I stuffed some rags into the throttle throats to keep out dirt and anything else I might drop into them.  There is a drain hose and a connection to the crankcase breather on the bottom of the air box that are nearly impossible to reach, so that took a little extra time to figure out.  I vigorously flushed out the air box with detergent and water until it looked new again.  The air filter was rinsed in solvent, dried and reoiled.  I slid it into place, and reassembled everything. 

Since the air filter is so out of the way and difficult to get to, I wonder how many bikes never have it cleaned during their entire lives.  Probably a lot. 

The spark plugs are now almost visible beneath their individual ignition coils, so I might as well check to see their condition.  I assemble just the right combination of extensions for my ratchet and remove the plugs.  

 
Both of them look nice, with a light brown coloration to center electrode porcelain.  I put them back in, put a little silicone grease in the coil boots and slid them tightly into place.  The primary connectors snap on easily. 

Next up is squeezing the air box back into position between the frame members with their electrical wiring bundles strapped to them.  This was a challenge, and those two hoses on the bottom were even more difficult to put back on than they were taking them off. 

I think you sometimes need tentacles for hands to work on these things. 

The fuel line and pump connector were fairly easy to reconnect, so that wasn’t an issue this time. 

Once everything was put back together, I found that overall the bike was pretty dirty from my last few rides.  It needed to be washed and dried. 

I might as well do that too, as long as I am at it. 

I scrubbed and brushed and sponged until it was reasonably clean.  My daylight was fading as I rinsed it all off with plenty of water from the hose, then used the leaf blower to dry it off again. 

Now that it was clean, a little wax on the tank and those pretty plastic body parts would finish it off nicely.  I might as well, as long as I am at it. 

Then I spotted the chain.  It had gotten wet during the bike bath, and it was time to clean and lube it anyway, so I might as well do that while the bike is off the ground and the rear wheel can be rotated freely.  I retrieved my squirt bottle of kerosene and my chain brush and got to work again.

Before long, the chain was as clean as I could get it, and I sprayed it down with fresh lube. 

That looked good.  I reset the trip odometer that I use to tell me when to service the chain, and I scanned the area to see if I had any spare parts left over. 

Fortunately, there were none. 

After that, I glanced at the clock and noted that it was getting on toward bedtime.  I reluctantly decided that I had to stop looking for things I might as well do, and finish the job I had started. 

Hmmmm.  This could be a disease of some kind…  Maybe I should seek treatment for chronic might-as-well. 

Well, might as well.  Maybe tomorrow. 

For tonight, I put away my tools, moved the bike back to its proper place in the garage, and turned out the light. 

Are you similarly afflicted with this malady?  If so, let me know what the remedy might be. 

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Sprockets on the Docket

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A while back, you may recall that I installed a new chain on my 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 650R.  The symptoms back then almost felt like the engine was missing, especially in the lower gears under hard acceleration, but try as I might, I could not find evidence of that. 

As it turned out, after some 25,000 miles, the original chain had stretched more in some places than in others, so the effective drive ratio was changing a few times with every circuit the chain made around the sprockets.  The new chain solved the problem of the unevenness I was feeling. 

I didn't change the sprockets at the time, because they did not appear to be worn enough to justify it.  Most advice says to change the sprockets at the second chain replacement.  Of course, the front sprocket was worn more than the rear because it is smaller and each tooth contacts the chain more often -- about three times more often than the rear sprocket since there are about three times the number of teeth -- 46 -- on the rear vs. the front -- 15. 

With the new chain, the drive was smooth again, so I had not thought any more about it until a few weeks ago.  The unevenness had come back. 

Now what could be wrong?  Has my "new" chain already worn out?  It is only 14,000 miles old.  Have the old sprockets damaged the new chain? 

I check the chain for stretch at several positions along its length.  That doesn't seem to be an issue. 

What next? 

The front sprocket shows some hooking of the teeth, the rear less so.  Well, the likely culprit is the front sprocket, but I decide to change both in case the rear has worn just enough to be a contributor to the problem. 

To the Internet, then, to do some shopping! 

I search ebay and Amazon, and a few of the on-line bike parts sources, but find the best prices for OEM sprockets at Ron Ayers.  You can buy aftermarket sprockets, certainly, but the front original has a rubber cushion built in for noise and harshness reduction.  I want to maintain that feature that most aftermarket sprockets do not provide.  As long as I am buying the front, I go ahead and buy the rear and the countershaft-locking washer too. 

I press the magic computer buttons, and the order is placed. 

A few days later, the parts arrive, and I commence with the surgery. 

First comes removal of the sensor that counts countershaft revolutions so the fuel injection computer knows what is going on, and so the speedometer and odometer register properly -- albeit the speedo has always been about 5 MPH optimistic at 60, though the odometer is correct. 

That was easy.  On to the next step. 

The front sprocket has that lock washer that prevents the nut on the countershaft from loosening.  It does that by your bending its edge against one of the flats on the nut.  I straighten out the washer, and get out the air impact tool I bought when the Tractor Supply store opened here and the 27mm impact socket I bought at O'Reilly Auto Parts.  (Don't try to use a 12-point conventional socket; it will round over the corners of the nut.)  I fire up the air compressor, ask my wife to help me put the bike on the rear stand, and to hold the rear brake while I apply the impact tool to the nut.  I remember to put the transmission in neutral so the engine doesn't turn while this is going on, because it could cause damage. 

The impact tool sounds like a giant angry woodpecker, clacking away, but this woodpecker has no discernable effect whatsoever on removing the nut; it remains firmly in place.  I guess that is good -- it certainly wouldn't have come off accidentally. 

I examine the visible threads inside the nut and use my engineering logic to conclude that this is, indeed, a right hand thread, and that I am not trying to tighten it instead of loosen it.  It is. 

I try the impact tool again.  And again.  My wife is getting tired of holding the rear brake, and she lets me know that. 

Finally, I hear the familiar "brrruuup" of an impact tool unzipping a fastener, and the nut comes off of the shaft. 

The locking washer and the stubborn nut, free at last: 

Whew!  I had had visions of having to take the bike to a shop just to get that nut loose...and the mechanic taunting me like I am a 98-pound weakling for not being able to get it off. 

I thank my wife for her help with a smooch and a hug (I hope I am not too greasy), then get back to the task at hand.  I loosen the rear wheel to put some slack in the chain, and the front sprocket comes off easily. 

There is a large amount of accumulated chain lube around the sprocket, so I clean that out. 

I remove the rear wheel, and use the impact tool and the appropriate impact socket to remove the six sprocket retaining nuts.  A little cleaning up of chain lube from around that area, and I am ready to start reassembly. 

I carefully examine the service manual for the correct torques, and get out my trusty torque wrench. 

The rear sprocket goes on easily.  I apply molybdenum disulfide/oil assembly lube to the new front sprocket splines and to the face of the nut, then loop the chain around and install the sprocket and washer.  I snug the nut, but I have to wait for the rear wheel and chain to be installed before I can torque it because I need the rear brake applied to keep the shaft from rotating as before.  (For that, I have to go get my wife again.) 

I position the chain around the rear sprocket, and reinstall the rear wheel.  I tension the chain by tightening the nuts on the two tension studs, making sure the alignment markings display the same, side to side. 

I tighten the rear axle nut and recheck the chain tension, because sometimes tightening the axle causes the chain tension to change a bit.  It hasn't this time. 

I also remember to check the chain tension at its tightest point.  You do this by rotating the rear wheel and feeling when the chain has the least amount of droop on the bottom, or return, side.  If you don't do this, there is a chance that the chain will be too tight when the suspension is deflected while riding.  This could cause expensive damage to the countershaft and its bearings. 

I call for my wife to come out again.  She drops what she is doing, and appears, wondering how long it is going to take this time.  I assure her that this will only be a short tenure this time (I hope).  She holds the brake pedal as I tighten the countershaft nut to the 95 ft-lb spec.  I use the impact socket on the torque wrench for the same reason as when removing the nut -- to keep from rounding off the corners of the nut. 

I again check chain tension and everything is good.  I bend over the edge of the countershaft lock washer so it is against a flat on the nut.  Don't want that coming off, now do we. 

Everything looks OK, so I put the RPM sensor and the front sprocket cover back on.  I install the cotter pin in the rear axle nut, and tighten the chain tension stud jamb nuts.

An application of lube to the chain is next.  

I slip a sheet of corrugated behind the chain to keep from squirting the tire.  I'd rather not see what the effect of that might be. 

Ready for a test ride. 

I suit up, and take it for a little spin.  I try some quick accelerations and pay attention to the feel, and whether the problem still exists.  The unevenness is greatly reduced. 

I think this may have fixed it.  The only thing better would be to have replaced the chain again, but I am not made of money, so that will have to wait a while.  

Lesson learned: At least replace the front sprocket when replacing the chain.  Here is a picture of the old next to the new front sprocket.

What do you think?  Was it time for a replacement? 


Resource to help investigate final drive sprocket ratio changes: Gearing Commander
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Valve Clearance Adjustment Tips

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Well, as you know from an earlier post, I checked and adjusted the valve clearance on my Kawasaki Ninja 650R last month.  The procedure is well documented in the Ninja 650R service manual, but here are a few tips that made -- or would have made -- the job a bit easier and safer.

Before you start turning any wrenches, clean off the areas of the bike you are going to work on with an air hose and brushes.  This helps prevent dirt from falling into places it shouldn't be while you are removing bits and pieces. 

Next, realize that you might drop something during the procedure.  That may simply be a nuisance, but it can also be potentially serious if you drop something into the wrong spot inside the engine.  One of these spots is into the throttle bodies.  If you drop it there, there is a chance it will get into the valves and cause real trouble.  So stuff it... 

...with a couple of rags before proceeding.

After removing the seat and fuel tank, the airbox is removed from atop the engine.  Beneath it, the cover over the camshafts becomes visible.  There are several brackets and other items that must be removed to get the cam cover off. 

Even though the Ninja manual says to remove the throttle cables, I instead removed the right-hand radiator support screw to give sufficient clearance to remove and replace the cam cover from the top rather than out the right side.  The fit was tight, but possible.  Be careful not to damage the radiator fins with the corner of the cam cover.

If you wish to remove the cam cover the way the manual advises, out the right side, there is a bracket in the way.  The red one in the center of this photo. 

From a riderforum posting by MCRider. 

However, this bracket is not used on the Ninja, and you can bend it out of the way or remove it without harm.  

Another place where trouble could occur is if you drop something into the cam chain tunnel that runs down from the cam sprockets to the crankshaft.  This could require more extensive disassembly of the engine if you cannot retrieve a dropped item there.  So, stuff a rag into that space as well.

Keep a magnet nearby in case you drop something anywhere else.  The magnet comes in handy, too, to help extract the buckets from their guides.  If those terms sound cryptic, read on and learn. 

Measuring the current valve clearances is done according to the manual instructions, using feeler gages of various thicknesses between the cam and the valve lifter with the cams at the positions it describes.  The use of feeler gages takes some finesse, since you can fairly easily compress the valve springs trying to force a gage into a space that is smaller than the gage thickness.  You want the gage to just slip in with a light amount of friction.  That indicates that the gap is about the same as the gage thickness.  If the gage slips in easily, the gap is larger than the gage thickness.  This is one technique where it pays to have someone who is experienced show you the method so you can get the feel of it for yourself. 

If any of the clearances are not within the specifications, you must proceed with further disassembly. 

Since you have to remove the camshafts to adjust valve clearances on many motorcycle engines, one shortcut is to make sure the camshaft sprocket does not come out of time with the camshaft drive chain.  You have to loosen the camshaft chain by removing the chain tensioner to be able to move the camshafts aside one at a time, but you can prevent the chain from leaving its correct position on the camshaft sprockets by threading a wire tie through an opening in the cam drive sprockets and around the chain.  Like this:

That simple expedient helps save the time to reset the timing upon reassembly.  That is not to say that the timing shouldn't be checked once the cams are back in place.  If the cams are out of time, the engine will not operate and internal damage could result.

If you don't secure the cam chain like this, then do make certain that you loop something -- a shop towel will do -- under the cam chain and use the towel to drape the chain over the edge of the cylinder head to keep the chain from dropping down into the crankcase and to keep the chain engaged with that sprocket hidden way down there on the crankshaft. 

Another important part of making the clearance adjustment is keeping good notes.  Your feeler gage measurements must be recorded for each valve before you take anything apart.  For any valve whose clearance is outside the correct range, you must then determine what shim is currently installed between the valve lifter or follower (often referred to as a "bucket") and the valve stem for each valve.  That is why the camshafts have to come loose -- so you can get to the shims, which are beneath the cam followers on this engine.  The shims may be marked, but I had to measure each one of mine with a micrometer, again diligently recording their thicknesses.

I recorded the data on a chart, showing before and after clearance measurements and shim thicknesses:

Here are a couple of photos from the procedure written by Black Lab for his Suzuki V-Strom DL-650 on the Stormtroopers* forum.  This one shows a magnet being used to lift out the bucket from its guide. 

This photo shows the shim stuck to the inside of the bucket by the oil film between the two. 

It is a very good idea to take more photographs during disassembly than you think you need in case some don't turn out or don't show what you are puzzling over a few days later when you are trying to put things back together again.   My memory seems to be getting shorter and shorter these days, so the camera becomes importanter and importanter. 

A chart in the manual tells you what new shim thickness to put in place, based on the measured clearance and the thickness of the current shim.  You can also do a simple calculation to determine this, though it is easy to get your plusses and minuses mixed up, resulting in installing the wrong shim thickness. A simple spreadsheet can also help.  (See below.) 

Only after you have made the clearance and existing shim thickness measurements can you determine whether any of the shims can be moved to another valve to provide the correct clearance there, or whether new shims of other thicknesses are required.  I moved three to other valves, left one alone, and purchased four shims to get all mine within spec.  The shims cost about ten dollars each, postage included; the lowest price I could find.  Mine came from Ron Ayers. 

Remember that the valve clearance generally decreases with use, so thinner shims are usually required to bring the clearance into the specified range.  This seemed backward to me.  I thought valve train wear would have increased clearance.  Apparently it is not the usual case that the valve train wears.  Instead, the valves wear into their seats.  This decreases valve train clearance. (Some clearance is necessary to allow for expansion as the valves and valve gear get hot. If there is no clearance then there is a risk that valves will not seal properly, will not transfer combustion heat to the cylinder head as well as they should, and hot gas could blow by them, which could damage both the seats and the valves.)   

Since too little clearance in the valve train risks serious valve and head damage, it is a good policy to aim for the high end of the clearance tolerance when selecting new shims.  I found all four intake valves to be near the low end of, but within, the clearance tolerance, so I changed the shims there to introduce more clearance -- still within spec -- to avoid the possibility of their becoming too tight between now and the next check. 

Here is a good article* from the ALL THINGS MOTO forum that shows how to perform a valve adjustment on a Suzuki RMZ450 single cylinder motocross bike.  The procedure is quite similar for the Ninja, and other overhead cam engines that use shim/bucket valve gear.  There, you will also find the spreadsheet* that helps you select the correct new shim thickness in case you don't want to otherwise calculate it or don't have the service manual. 

Once the cams are back in place, the clearance is again checked to make certain you have not made a mistake.  After that, reassembling everything with new seals is all that is required before getting back on the road. 

I say "all that is required."  An understatement, for sure. 

A big difficulty for me was getting the cam cover gasket to stay in its groove in the cam cover while reinstalling the cover to the cylinder head.  A little old fashioned rubber cement in the groove saved the day. 

Also, reaching the various hoses that attach to the airbox was a challenge.  You need tiny hands and hemostats to put back some of them. 

While I had things apart, I also did some other maintenance:  

• Replaced the spark plugs 
• Cleaned the crankcase vent reed valves
• Cleaned and re-oiled the air filter element 
• Degreased all of the parts removed 
• Re-cemented one heated grip
• Checked the clutch free play
• Did quite a bit of general cleaning (mostly leftovers from my occasional gravel road excursions)

I took my time on this work because I was unfamiliar with the procedure and with the engine.  I suppose I took around fifteen hours all together to do just the valve clearance work, including reading the manual, doing Internet research, ordering the parts, being very careful to document the order of things, keeping the fasteners with the parts they held, and double (sometimes triple) checking myself as I went along.  Next time will be faster.

The forum poster who calls himself Black Lab that I mentioned above has some additional good advice:

Pick a [time period] where you know that you will not have interruptions. Work at [a] pace that you are comfortable with. When you feel yourself tensing up, walk away from the project for a little bit, then return.

Now, the acid test: Will it start?

One push of the magic button provided the gratifying sound of a well-running engine.  I was careful not to rev the engine initially to make sure everything that had been disassembled was receiving oil. 

I couldn't resist taking a picture of my ride after the mechanical work was done but before the plastic was put back on.  She looks a bit menacing that way, in the half light of the evening. 

The next day, my first trip after the mechanicing, was an enjoyable 138 miles around the mountains north of home on some familiar rods and some less so. The engine seems a bit peppier with things adjusted, replaced, and cleaned. 

She should be good to go for around 26,000 more miles now.

See y'all out there riding! 


*  You may have to register to view the forum articles, but that registration is free.
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No Riding This Week

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I'm not going to ride my Ninja this week.

No, I didn't take a tumble, and it's not the weather.  [Edit 1/23/2012: Well, actually, the weather has been rainy almost since I turned the first wrench on this task.]

Instead, I have work to do.  See what it is? 

 

Yep.  Time for a valve clearance check.  

What a pain!  You have to remove the seat, tank, air intake box, cylinder head cover, and a host of related brackets and shields.  Only then can you see the cams and valve lifters to check their clearances using a feeler gage set.  

Naturally, some adjustments are needed, so off come the cams and the bucket lifters, and the shims.  Then the micrometer comes out to determine the existing shim thicknesses.  

Then to the service manual table to determine what the new shim thickness should be for the eight valves. 

Next, to the Ron Ayers website to order the shims.  Last time I ordered something from them the service was quick, the phone man was helpful and courteous, and the shipping time was short, even for items not in their stock. 

I'll be cleaning things in the meantime, readying the parts for reassembly.  

Although I have been a grease monkey for most of my life, this is my first time into an engine that uses shims for valve adjustment.  Lots of work to change out some itty bitty parts.  

Oh well.  It is one of the pleasures of owning a motorcycle: Fixing it yourself.  

See you on the road in a few days!  

See also: Valve Clearance Adjustment Tips I learned while doing this work.  

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Introductions

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I am Bucky.

I started riding a motorcycle in late 2007, in my fifth decade of life.

I had always been interested in riding, but the closest I had gotten previously was on a mini bike that my brother and I built from scratch when I was sixteen years old. It had a cast iron Briggs & Stratton model 6 engine built in 1952 that put out less than three horsepower. Nevertheless, I rode it -- much of the time at full throttle -- for many enjoyable miles over the next three years or so. It was licensed as a motorcycle. The last year it was licensed was 1970, and eventually it was relegated to the garage. I still had it until the summer of 2008 when I sold it to a boy who used his birthday money to buy it.

The adjacent pictures show the bike after it was repainted a few years ago. The frame is electrical conduit. The handlebars, wheels and a few other items were purchased. Note the neat dual exhaust. That was my brother's idea. The old fashioned exposed rope starter drum is also a bit of a hazard to the rider's ankle!

About the same time it was repainted, I bought a carburetor rebuild kit from the local lawn mower repair shop. It was readily available, and fit perfectly, making the engine run like new. That is saying something for an engine that is fifty-six years young!

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That was the first chapter in the saga.