There is a problem that seems to be prevalent on the first generation -- 2006, 2007, and 2008 model years -- Kawasaki Ninja 650R like mine.
The problem is that the kickstand pivot becomes worn enough
that the foot of the stand contacts the drive chain when in the raised position. That is not good. It damages the chain, and it wears off the base of the
stand.
Many others apparently have this problem as evidenced in
this forum.
Well, being the tinkerer – er, engineer – that I am, I
couldn’t stand by and let it get worse, so I started to look for a fix. The amount of play, measured side to side at
the bottom end of the stand had grown to almost an inch, and the return spring
caused the stand to become closer and closer to the chain, eventually interfering with it. Although the stand and its bracket are
substantial, when
leaning the bike over onto it, the stand would scoot out because of the excess clearance, giving a quite disconcerting feeling that the
bike was going to topple over. It never
has, but it sure feels like it is going to every time I use the stand.
I removed the kickstand to take a closer look at the
problem. Naturally, I had to put the
bike up on my rear stand, and for that, I have to ask the help of my pretty
wife. As she always does, she dutifully
helped steady the bike while I put the muscle into stand lever, lifting the rear
wheel a few inches off the ground. A
thank-you kiss, and I am ready to start wrenching.
It only takes a few minutes to remove the foot peg bracket (Kawasaki calls it a step stay),
the stand safety switch, and the stand itself.
The stand switch is removed by unscrewing the hex-head cap
screw, not the Phillips-head screw that holds the actuator arm to the switch.
Do note that the fastener for the stand is a shoulder
screw. There is a lock nut on the back
of it that must be removed first, but the screw is also threaded into the far
side of the kickstand itself. Remove
the nut, then unscrew the shoulder screw.
Carefully relieve the tension on the return sprang as you take the screw
out.
Here are the parts:
Although I couldn’t see exactly what was worn, I set to measuring the thickness of the frame bracket, and the width of the fork on the stand. I found a little more than 0.030” of difference. I am certain that a little clearance is designed in, but something must be worn to cause the stand to be out of position. The shoulder screw showed some wear, but not enough to cause the problem, it didn’t appear.
Though you might be tempted to simply bend the sides of the fork together, that won't work for long because of the shoulder-screw design.
So, I made a washer-shaped shim out of 0.030” steel stock,...
When assembled, the shim washer will be positioned against the inside face of the lower leg of the kickstand fork in this picture. |
...and reassembled the stand. After a
little trouble making sure the shim was not damaged while inserting the
shoulder screw that holds the stand to the bracket, I tried lowering and
raising the stand, and it was much better.
Only about a quarter of an inch play now.
I took everything apart again, lubed up the parts, and
reassembled them. The stand
return spring was the most difficult thing to get back on, but a little help
from a loop of bailing wire and a screwdriver to apply some stretching force to
it saved the day. (Yes, I removed the
bailing wire after it did its job. I’m
a tinkerer, not a hacker, guys.) A spring hook like this one made for brake and headlight springs is a better tool for removing and replacing the spring.
The finished product:
Closeup of the shim washer location.
Further
info:
I do not guarantee that this will fix or, indeed, that this is
a good fix at all, for the problem described.
I am not responsible for you and your bike. You are.
Specs for the spacer washer
· 0.030”
thick steel shim stock.
· ½”
diameter hole, punched with hole punch.
· 1-1/8”
outside diameter, cut with tin snips.
The proper shim thickness may be different from mine,
depending on the original dimensions and any wear that has occurred.
The shim goes on the outside of the frame bracket,
and inside the near side of the fork of the stand when assembled.
Make sure the hole in the shim is aligned both with the hole
in the stand and the hole in the frame bracket before tightening the shoulder
screw.
Make certain that the stand moves freely, and that the
spring holds it both in the raised and in the lowered positions.
Use the correct torques and thread locking compound (on the
peg bracket and stand switch screws) as directed in the service manual on all
fasteners.
Test everything for proper operation before riding.
If something does work right, take it to a competent
serviceman.
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